Category Archives: Fashion History

VPOD: Vintage Patricia of Miami Lucite Handbag and Thinking Outside the Purse


vintage patricia of miami lucite handbag

Long before upcycling was a word, Will Hardy was salvaging material from the nose cones of damaged WWII airplanes and turning it into magnificent handbags.

Soon Lucite, Dupont’s trade name for acrylic resin, became a popular material of choice for a host of handbag manufacturers who produced plastic handbags that were dotted with rhinestones, glittered with confetti or designed to appear as basketweave fabric.

Why women even embraced the idea of completely clear Lucite purses! Of course, not wanting to put the content of their purses on display for all to see, they began inserting colorful scarves or hankies to hide the items they carried inside. And so a trend was born.

Many more interesting facts about Lucite handbags are shared by Ben Marks in his Collectors Weekly article, Lucite in the Sky with Diamonds, where he interviews Janice Berkson of Deco Jewels in NYC, an avid collector, expert and author of several books on the topic.

Be sure to check out the article for some breathtaking pictures from Janice Berkson’s collection.

And if you’re not into carrying one of these beauties on your arm today (I realize they aren’t fashion-forward enough for some), do remember that they can do double-duty as fabulous catchalls for doodads on your dressing table, in a powder room, in a dining room or even on a desk.

Today’s VPOD by Patricia of Miami, for example, is a style that has been featured in two books on Lucite handbags and is a particularly fine choice if you prefer to have these bags spice up your home decor instead of your wardrobe.

It’s just another way to think outside the purse if you’re a Vintage Crusader!

Available at Mom’s Vintage Treasures.

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VPOD: Vintage 1950s Haskell Necklace and Le Bijou de l’Heure


vintage 1950s miriam haskell aqua and coral glass necklace

vintage 1950s miriam haskell necklace dove clasp

miriam haskell first store

Miriam Haskell opened her first retail boutique in 1926 at the McAlpin Hotel in NYC. Named Le Bijou de l’Heure, which, if my high school French still serves me, roughly translates as “the Jewel of the Hour,” the boutique was filled with her spectacular custom-made creations.

Catering to the best-dressed society women of the day, Miriam attracted many fans including Coco Chanel and later, Lucille Ball, Joan Crawford and the Duchess of Windsor.

Today the company she founded mass-produces jewelry under a private-labeling program for major retailers like Macy’s, Target, Nordstrom and Gap. It’s also the face behind the launches of the jewelry brands Simply Vera by Vera Wang, Kenneth Cole, Betsey Johnson and, most recently, Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers line.

But the company also still produces what it describes as its “crown jewel” Miriam Haskell line which is meticulously hand-made individual bead-by-bead and piece-by-piece just as Miriam Haskell did back in the 1920s.

Which brings us to today’s VPOD, a fantastic vintage 1950s glass bead necklace by Miriam Haskell in my favorite summer color combination of coral and turquoise.

Check out the rare dove clasp.

It’s this type of loving attention to detail that gives a Haskell piece an energy that just doesn’t exist in a mass-produced piece found at your local department store. And yes, it’s this type of intangible that definitely gets factored into a vintage Haskell price tag.

It’s also why a piece like this is worth every penny to a vintage fashionista!

Available at Bell*Star Vintage. | Discovered at TheFind.com.

(To receive the VPOD free via email with detailed size and price information, sign up for the growing email mailing list here. Your information will never be sold or shared and you can easily unsubscribe at any time.)

VPOD: Vintage Alfred Shaheen Dress and Jacket


vintage alfred shaheen dress and jacket

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade! That’s what Alfred Shaheen did.

When he opened Shaheen’s of Honolulu in 1948, he had to keep a year’s worth of fabric on hand to protect against shipping delays and other unforeseen factors which hampered cash flow. Plus he often found himself settling for whatever fabrics were sent by the textile mills instead of what he had ordered.

So he boldly took matters into his own hands. He built his own equipment, sought out his own textile designers, hired workers to screenprint their designs and was soon producing 60,000 yards of fabric per month.

But not just any ol’ fabric with any ol’ designs in any ol’ colors.

No, no, no. Alfred Shaheen raised the bar!

All colors were applied by hand so they saturated the fabric. Workers had over 1,000 dye colors to choose from. And he refused to do “hash prints or chop suey prints.” Quality was the name of the game.

Perhaps that’s why Alfred Shaheen prints are still so popular today. And while sometimes the style of his dresses and maxi dresses can look dated, that’s definitely not the case with today’s VPOD.

This vintage Alfred Shaheen Asian-print dress and matching jacket could hold its own in any modern office.

It’s a top-notch find for a vintage fashionista!

Available at Mod Mod Mod. | Discovered at TheFind.com.

(To receive the VPOD via email along with detailed size, price and purchase information, sign up for my growing email mailing list here. Your information will never be sold or shared and you can easily unsubscribe at any time.)

VPOD: Vintage 1970s Madame Gres Dress with Capelet


vintage madame gres dress

vintage madame gres dress detail #1

A few Santa Monica Vintage Expos ago, Sandra Mendoza-Daly and I were browsing all the vintage goodies when we came across a dress on a mannequin that had a little handwritten sign below it.  The sign said something like this:

Dress by Madame Gres. If anyone has any info on this designer, please see me.

Sandra and I looked at each other, then we looked at the dress and lo and behold it was truly an early Madame Gres. We informed the dealer about the treasure on her hands and listened in awe to her story of how the dress just walked into her shop one day with someone who wanted to sell some of a relative’s old clothes.

For someone like myself, who immerses herself in fashion history on a regular basis, it’s hard to believe that Madame Gres could go unnoticed, particularly by an experienced dealer. After all, some would argue that Madame Gres was the greatest couturier in history! But unlike other legends whose names live on with much greater fanfare, Madame Gres’ story was more one of riches to rags than rags to riches.

When she passed away in 1993 she was alone and destitute and her daughter kept her death a secret from the world for over a year. The truth was finally revealed by a reporter shortly after the full-scale retrospective of her work at the Met’s Costume Institute closed.

Christian Dior once said, “Each dress she makes is a masterpiece,” and today’s VPOD is no exception.

This vintage 1970s Madame Gres ensemble features a simple dress with a magnificent cape top.

It’s a noteworthy find for a vintage fashionista!

Available at Rare Vintage.

(To receive the VPOD via email along with detailed size, price and purchase information, sign up for my growing email mailing list here. Your information will never be sold or shared and you can easily unsubscribe at any time.)

Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave at the Legion of Honor


isabelle de borchgrave dress 3 isabelle de borchgrave dress 4

isabelle de borchgrave dress 1 isabelle de borchgrave dress 2

You won’t believe your eyes!  These amazing gowns, representing quintessential examples from costume history, are constructed entirely from paper!

For more than fifteen years, Belgian artist Isabelle de Borchgrave has been crumpling, pleating, braiding, feathering and painting her inspirations from European paintings and costumes in museums. Now, the Legion of Honor in San Francisco is the first American museum to dedicate an entire exhibition to her work. Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave opened earlier this month and will run through June 5, 2011.

The six sections of the exhibition walk you through the artist’s creative process and inspiration and show pieces representing famous designers like Worth, Poiret and Chanel as well as an entire section devoted exclusively to Fortuny’s pleated and draped gowns.

And if San Francisco isn’t in your travel plans, a drool-worthy catalog is available from the museum store for $29.95.

It’s a don’t-miss-event for a vintage fashionista!

More information at Legion of Honor.

CREDIT: Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave is organized by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco and sponsored by Lonna Wais. Additional support is provided by Nathalie and Garry McGuire and Elizabeth W. Vobach. Collection Connections is made possible by The Annenberg Foundation. The exhibition catalogue is supported in part by a grant from Friends of Fiber Art International.


© Mary Kincaid 2006-2009
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