Couture | Zuburbia Vintage Clothing

VPOD: Vintage 1920s Fortuny Stenciled Gauze Tunic

While I’m not actively seeking a Prince Charming at the moment, I do know that, unlike most princesses who dream of something with 4 C’s in a Tiffany ring box, I’ll know I’ve met my soulmate when he understands I’m more interested in these 4 C’s: Fortuny, Worth, Vionnet and Balenciaga (C standing for couturier, of course).

Yep, just hand me an archive box with one of these masters’ treasures nestled in acid-free tissue paper and I just might squeal “I do” and follow a guy anywhere.

Take today’s VPOD, for instance. This oh-so-rare Fortuny silk gauze tunic from the 1920s features hand stenciling with metallic gold pigments, gorgeous glass beads, and impeccable shoulder pleating that creates a wonderful drape.

Talk about talent! Not only did Fortuny design magnificent garments with one more beautiful than the next, he was a true Renaissance man who bound his own books, created one of the first dimmer switches, invented a boat propeller and at some point in time could call himself a painter, an etcher, a sculptor, an inventor, an architect, and a photographer.

It’s been said he was not a couturier, but a “creative artist of dress.”

And this is one of his oh-so-collectible finds for a vintage fashionista.

Available from wwwdecadencefashioncouk at Sense of Fashion

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Written on July 16, 2010 by Mary Kincaid in 1920s, Couture, vintage, vintage clothing

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VPOD: Vintage 1910s Madeleine Cheruit Silk Tunic

If you’re lucky enough to be the recipient of an unexpected financial windfall of, ooooh, let’s say, $9,000, any self-respecting financial advisor would strongly urge you to act sensibly and invest your riches in a stock market index fund or a blue-chip stock with a solid record of dividends.

I’ve never once heard Suze Orman or any other financial whiz suggest that you splurge on something outrageously rare, beautiful and stunning like today’s VPOD. But that’s what I’d want to do.

This vintage 1910’s silk tunic by Madeleine Cheruit is simply exquisite. Trained in the 1880s at the couture house of Raudnitz, in Paris, Madeleine Cheruit created for many aristocratic clients and her work is highly regarded alongside the likes of Vionnet, Lanvin and Worth.

In this piece, she transforms a simple design from ordinary to extraordinary with an asymmetric closure and outstanding embroidery and beadwork. There’s no machine sewing here! Every bead, every sequin, every stitch would have been done by hand.

It’s still in very good condition one hundred years later and it’s provenance is known. That’s a picture of the garment’s first owner taken in the 1920s.

What an investment-worthy find for a vintage fashionista!

Available from Kakkoii Mono.

(To receive the VPOD via email with detailed size, price and purchase information, sign up for my growing email mailing list here. Your information will never be sold or shared and you can easily unsubscribe at any time.)

Written on June 21, 2010 by Mary Kincaid in 1900s, Cheruit, Couture, Separates, Uncategorized, vintage, vintage clothes, vintage clothing

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VPOD: Vintage 1970s Dress with Satin Bow

Just a few days ago, I felt compelled to respond to @Yinkaaa’s tweet on Twitter and here’s what it looked like:

Isn’t it true? Vintage, which most of us would agree means an item that is at least 25 years old, is now being applied to brand new merchandise in department stores. Fashion brands are incorporating the word into their names even though their items aren’t authentic vintage, just vintage-inspired. And of course, vintage is now often used to describe more recent pieces that really should be called used or pre-owned.

It’s my opinion that we dealers need to protect the meaning of the word vintage. We owe it to our clients to remove any confusion about what they’re purchasing. And we have a responsibility to protect its meaning for our industry or we shouldn’t be surprised that as the meaning of vintage is diluted in the marketplace, the value of vintage pieces diminishes, too.

As for couture, this is a word that once applied only to the haute couture items created under the strict rules of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. And the first of their requirements stated that couture must be made-to-order for a private client and include several fittings. But today, a quick Google search for “couture dress” brings back 770,00 results; a search on “couture gown” brings back 47,000 more. I’m pretty sure all these “couture” dresses for sale aren’t done for private clients with several fittings. Nope. I’m pretty sure the fashion term couture, like the fashion term vintage, has become diluted.

Of course, one of the modern uses of the term couture that I can live with is when reputable vintage dealers use it as a way to highlight items that have been constructed (usually by hand) with meticulous quality and detail. An item like today’s VPOD, for example.

This 1970s dress has no label but has been so expertly made. And it’s wide detachable belt and black satin bow pair well with the plethora of black buttons.

It’s a beautiful, well-made find for a vintage fashionista!

Available at VintageBuzz. | Discovered at TheFind.com.

(To receive the VPOD via email with detailed size, price and purchase information, sign up for my growing email mailing list here. Your information will never be sold or shared and you can easily unsubscribe at any time.)

Written on March 3, 2010 by Mary Kincaid in 1970s, Couture, Dresses, vintage, vintage clothing

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VPOD: The Golden Age of Couture

Until January 6, 2008, the Victoria & Albert Museum is featuring an exhibit entitled “The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957.” It focuses on British and Parisian couture during the years that Christian Dior once referred to as “the Golden Age of fashion.” It explains the production of couture in depth and features the work of such greats as Balenciaga, Balmain, Givenchy, Amies and Chanel.

And while you may not be able to hop off to merry ol’ England to enjoy this dazzling array of ensembles, anyone can sit down with a cup of tea and browse the outstanding exhibit website. It’s filled with lots of great information and fabulous photography plus extra goodies like e-postcards and a free dress pattern.

It’s a wonderful exhibit for a vintage fashionista!

Check it out here.

(To receive the VPOD via email with detailed size, price and purchase information, sign up for my growing email mailing list. Your information will never be sold or shared and you can unsubscribe at any time.)

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